Build Your Own Power Rack

I did a lot of research in buying/making a power rack. I found a lot of good designs for homemade, but I found a lot of them were overdone and too expensive. Same with buying a power rack…way overpriced. So I built my own.

(click on images to enlarge)

STEP 1: Go to Home Depot and buy the following list







Here is a list of everything you will need to buy if you are starting from scratch. Chances are you may have some of this stuff lying around already. As you can see from the first picture the design is very simple.

-SUBTRACT the gorilla glue. I didn’t use a drop of glue on this project.

STEP 2:  Make sure you bought the right stuff


STEP 3: Get to work (Build your frames)

The rack can be scaled to the space you have available since the design is so simple. Just keep that in mind if you build one. I kept mine simple with minimal cutting so it was a little bit bigger than it had to be. I did not want to mess with cutting pipe and having to rethread it so my frames were built around the pipe.

1st- Lay out your two 2×6’s then cut your two 2×4’s. What you are cutting is the upper support beam and the squat safety bar. Keep in mind your if you have a low ceiling you want to make sure your face won’t slam into it when doing pull-ups so keeping your 2×6’s at 8 ft. is up to you. Also, since I made my squat safety bar permanent, you want to make sure that it is low enough for you to go all the way down on your squat without any problems.

-I cut my top support beam and squat safety bar at 43″.
-My top support beam is secured by two bolts drilled through on each end at 45 degree angels.
-My squat beam is only secured by one bolt at each end.

2nd- Cut your bottom support beam. Mine extends well beyond each side of the rack. They were cut at 56″. The extra length adds support during normal and kipping pull-ups

-These too are secured by two bolts on each ends at 45 degree angles from one another.

At this point your frames should be built…and you’re almost done.

3rd- Your basic frame should be built. You may want to stand them up and see EXACTLY where you want to place your flanges for the pull up bar. I determined I wanted them pretty close to the top with just enough space for my chest to be above the bar and still have about 5 inches before my head would hit the ceiling.

-After you determine this you can add your flanges. My suggestion is secure a flange to one side then screw in the pipe. Then screw the flange on the other side of the pipe THEN secure it to your second frame. If you do it in any other order you are adding unnecessary work.

So your frames are built….


STEP 4: Put the frames together 

-Put the structure together on the ground starting with the pipe as stated above. After you have done this you can add the back support beam as seen in the picture. It should be cut to whatever length measures between the two 56″ bottom support beams.


DO NOT do pull-ups on this structure yet. She’s not ready.

So at this point you should have your basic structure erected and all the basic framing done. All that is done from here is a few extra support and brace beams for added structure support.

STEP 5: Add Support

All the cutting from here on is at your discretion. Here is what I added for more support.

-Two 45ish degree braces running from the back support beam to the main vertical structure.
-Two top support beams. 1 mimics the bottom back support beam just at the top. The other was put in to connect the top of the structure from inside to inside.

-The next thing I did all depends on if you want to KIP in your pull-ups or not. Being a crossfitter, I do. So I secured my structure to my wall studs. This means I can kip, swing, and go crazy with out the structure moving. Some guys put weight on the structure to keep it from moving, but that gets annoying. Secure it to the wall and you’re done.

-Last thing is add your bar holders for squats. I cut mine about 10″ and secured them with 2 bolts at 45 degree angels. Make sure they are tightened down really well.


This was certainly an easy project. If you want any specific directions or if I missed a step just let me know in comments. I can give you any measurments and directions you need. I just wanted to give the pictures and the basic layout.


Been using it for over two months now

-400 lbs on the squat rack…no problem
-100’s if not 1000’s of pull-ups….no problem
-ring dips and muscle-ups…no problem

If you build this design with no glue, like me, just secure your bolts once a month and make sure they are tight. It should be good. This thing should last a good while, and if something fails on it I would certainly take the Saturday to build a new one.


7 responses to “Build Your Own Power Rack

  1. This is awesome! I have been thinking about the best way to get something like this in my garage. Thanks for posting. Have you tried kips on it?

  2. This is fantastic. Thanks for the writeup. I think I may build it here soon!

    What do you think about securing in a place where there are no studs, like a basement with cement walls? And what’s the best type of floor padding for doing deadlifts? I am a barefoot kind of guy, so I’d like to lay something down (on the cold concrete in Minnesota) so that I can lift with proper form but not freeze my little toes all the way off.

    Thanks again for taking the time to write this!

    • Cement walls will probably work fine. I would just look into getting some pretty good anchors to go into the cement.

      As far as padding…I don’t use any. I live in Texas so I don’t need to worry about freezing. I wear vibram five fingers when deadlifting and always keep my floors swept. I have an old mattress pad that I use to make dropping a little easier on my equipment. However, I know that academy sells really great and cheap padding that interlocks. So you could get as much or as little as you need.

      Hope that helps!

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